Cooking on the Move
We recently had the good fortune to travel on board the British Pullman of the Venice-Simplon Orient-Express where we experienced The Golden Age of Travel, a relaxing luncheon journey where we were transported from Chichester to a slower-paced era. It was an era where the train ride was an integral part of the journey; something to be enjoyed rather than endured; a place to make new acquaintances rather than shun the contact of one’s fellow travellers; a time to savour fine, fresh cuisine in an unhurried manner rather than gulp down some industrial fare prepared days ago. We embarked on a journey of true elegance.
The Golden Age of Travel
Our journey began in our bedroom. Yes! for that morning we chose clothing suited to a luxurious day out: dapper suit and tie for my husband; matching hat, shoes and bag for me. One could even say that our journey really began when we received our travel documents. No run-of-the-mill tickets for the Orient-Express, one receives a full sheet of luxurious paper with an Invitation to Board, nestled in a Genuine Leather document wallet. First class from the very start!
We were set to embark on the British Pullman at Chichester, and joined the excited group of fellow passengers waiting on the platform. The level of chatter rose and fell as we compared each others’ hats and shoes. Though less vocal, even the men showed a ruffle of anticipation. Trains do that to men. A few modern trains glided in and out of the station until finally, in the distance, we could see the gold and brown engine grow larger as it pulled our carriages nearer.
And then, the beautiful, shining, historic carriages of the British Pullman streamed past us and came to a halt. Out came a myriad of uniformed stewards, smiling as they photographed excited passengers in front of this luxurious dream, unruffled as they gently urged stragglers to take their places on board.
Off we went!
We took our seats in a lovely private compartment in the carriage called Lucille. There are no bench seats in the British Pullman; they are all supremely comfortable arm chairs such as one would find in the Vicar’s living room. Our table was laid for two with silver cutlery and the iconic heavy crystal glassware emblazoned with the VSOE logo. Canapés awaited us and Laurent Perrier Champagne quickly followed. What a lovely start to our journey!
Up to 192,000 plates of food
Up to 200 times a year, the British Pullman embarks on a journey carrying up to 240 passengers who will be wined and dined to the highest standards. Assuming an average of four courses per meal, that represents 200 journeys x 240 passengers x 4 courses = an amazing 192,000 plates of food in a year – all of them prepared in a kitchen the size of a large cupboard!
There are two kitchens per train, serving 10 carriages. Each kitchen is comprised of a pot wash section and a cooking section. They are gas powered for cooking and hot water, so there’s no electricity to run either a dishwasher or a Thermomix! Dishes and glasses are all washed and dried by hand, and a sous-chef readies each dish for silver service.
A delicious 5-course meal
Our luncheon was a five-course moveable feast where each dish was served in silver service style by a procession of stewards who each served one component of each dish. For instance: the wild trout and green peppercorn terrine was gently deposited on our plates despite the at times intense rocking of the train by a first steward, followed by the watercress mayonnaise being gently dolloped by a second steward who was quickly followed by the salad steward, who was in turn followed by the bread steward who served us hot rolls. The wine steward was someone altogether different. At least I think he was but perhaps I’ve lost track…
I was particularly impressed by the fact that each steward informed us of what was coming next – sauce, vegetables, what have you – so that we always knew what to expect, and whether or not we should start eating yet. Terribly reassuring, I must say, and all forming a well-practiced ballet.
Seasonality and speciality
British Pullman Executive Chef Matthew Smith takes great care to plan menus that showcase sustainable British produce at its seasonal best. In addition, anywhere up to 40 specialty meals are prepared at any one time for passengers with special dietary needs. This is managed by expert preparation in the Orient-Express’ central Battersea kitchens, with meal components then being transferred on board. Meats are seared for instance at Battersea and cooking is finished in the onboard ovens in the two kitchens at either end of the train. Sauces are started at Battersea and finished on board; potatoes are turned à la Cordon Bleu at Battersea and cooked on board, as are the other vegetables. On our journey individual meals were served silver service where each steward takes a silver platter containing many portions of each dish and serves them to each passenger using silver serving cutlery. This is a highly-developed skill which is made more challenging by the occasional bumps of the journey. Considering the length of service of some of the stewards – up to 32 years on our train – there is a high degree of expertise among the British Pullman staff.
This high degree of expertise is also visible in the kitchens, where sous-chef Jon Freeman officiated over his 4.5m x 1.8m kitchen. Each dish was served hot. The vegetables retained their crunch. The sauce was delicious and did not split. Maintaining this standard for 120 customers in a restaurant kitchen is hard enough; doing it on a moving train in a kitchen the size of a cupboard is a Herculean feat.
The beautiful British countryside
Our Chichester luncheon journey followed a carefully chosen scenic route through the beautiful British countryside, where terrine was followed by soup followed by fricassee of chicken. A 20-minute stop at Westbury was just long enough to change engines for the return to Chichester, during which a beautiful British cheese board preceded a very seasonal plum trifle. While we explored the unique and lovingly restored carriages, our stewards busied themselves unobtrusively, catering to our every need, answering questions, and finally informing us that we would be arriving back in Chichester in thirty minutes. Where had the time gone? Relaxing in the lap of luxury implies forgetting time constraints and embracing a journey back to The Golden Age of Travel. It is a journey we would gladly repeat time and again.
The British Pullman carriages of the Venice Simplon Orient-Express offer a wide choice of day excursions in Britain. Aboard the meticulously restored vintage umber and cream 1920’s and 30’s carriages, passengers enjoy fine food and wines as Britain’s countryside unfolds. The full 2011-2012 schedule is available online, including journeys to National Trust properties, RHS Flower Shows, and a selection of Signature Journeys. New for this year is an on-board shopping trip for Christmas. Hold me back – I can’t wait!!
Reservations: 0845 217 0799
Madame Thermomix was a guest of the British Pullman.
Bon voyage !
